How the humble Kerala stew is finally having its moment
Kerala stew, a traditional dish, is experiencing a resurgence in popularity, particularly in Kochi. This coconut milk-based stew, often served with appam or bread, is now featured prominently in restaurants and food trucks. The dish's versatility and nostalgic value have made it a favorite for various occasions and meals.
- ▪Reems Stew and Bread, a food truck in Kochi, has gained significant popularity for its chicken, beef, and vegetable stew served with bread.
- ▪Stewmuch, a cloud kitchen, was established to offer stew as a versatile dish suitable for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
- ▪The origins of Kerala stew reflect a blend of colonial influences and local ingredients, making it a unique culinary staple.
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A bowl of piping hot chicken stew served with lacy appams or steamed slices of bread is the stuff of nostalgia for the Malayali, that subtle flavour of the light, spice-tinged gravy carries many memories. The coconut milk-based gravy with pieces of chicken and cubed potatoes, carrots, and onions, the mild aroma of cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, pepper, and bay leaves … a well-made stew is a warm hug. The beef variety has more takers, while the vegetable version has its fans. Kerala stew or ishtew/ishtoo is having its moment. A regular on the menus of city restaurants, alongside breakfast combos appam-egg roast or puttu-kadala, the stew appears as accompaniment to appam. However, today it is a standalone dish with dedicated restaurants, cloud kitchens and even a ‘stew truck’.
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