Chefs and critics share an uneasy bond. Then Ben Shewry turned on food media — and it blew up
Ben Shewry, the acclaimed chef behind Melbourne's Attica restaurant, has reignited debate in the food world with his candid and critical memoir, 'Uses for Obsession,' which takes aim at the food media industry. His rise from a struggling restaurant to global acclaim is detailed alongside sharp critiques of critics and media practices, challenging long-standing relationships in the culinary world. The memoir's release has sparked widespread discussion among chefs, journalists, and diners about power, authenticity, and representation in fine dining.
- ▪Ben Shewry transformed Attica, a struggling Ripponlea restaurant, into one of the world's top 20 restaurants over 13 years.
- ▪His memoir, 'Uses for Obsession,' offers a candid and often critical account of his career and the food media industry.
- ▪The book has provoked strong reactions from food journalists and critics, particularly over its portrayal of restaurant reviews and media influence.
- ▪Attica's cuisine is known for its distinctly Australian ingredients and storytelling approach, exemplified by dishes like the King George whiting map.
- ▪Chief restaurant critic Besha Rodell praised Attica’s use of native ingredients, such as sugarbag honey, for capturing the essence of the Australian landscape.
Opening excerpt (first ~120 words) tap to expand
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Excerpt limited to ~120 words for fair-use compliance. The full article is at The Sydney Morning Herald.